Answer first
A fake Hermès shoulder bag copies a Hermès model that has a strap. Hermès builds straps into the Constance, the Evelyne, the Lindy, the Halzan and the Jypsière. The Birkin has no shoulder strap. The Kelly has a top handle and an optional strap. Most bags sold as "Hermès shoulder bags" copy the Constance or the Evelyne.
Three checks do most of the work: the strap anchor, the stitch line, and the blind stamp.
Models that go on the shoulder
- Constance: fixed strap, "H" clasp, sizes 14, 18, 23 and 24 cm.
- Evelyne: canvas or leather strap with a buckle, perforated "H" on the front, sizes TPM, PM and GM.
- Lindy: two top handles plus a detachable strap.
- Halzan: fold-over body with a shoulder strap.
- Kelly: top handle. A strap is sold as a separate item.
Strap anchor
On a Constance the strap runs into the gusset and is stitched through the leather. Look at the stitch row where the strap meets the body. Real bags show one straight row with the same thread as the body. Copies show a wide hole, glue at the seam, or a metal plate under the lining.
On an Evelyne the strap passes through two leather loops. The loops are stitched on both faces. One row of machine stitching on a single face points to a copy.
Stitch line
Hermès uses saddle stitching: one thread, two needles, both faces of the leather sewn at the same time. The stitches sit at a slant on the front and on the back. Machine stitching shows a straight line on one face and a lockstitch on the other. Count the stitches along 1 inch. A real bag holds a constant count. A copy drifts at the corners.
Blind stamp
The blind stamp is heat pressed into the leather with no foil. It carries the shape code, the size, the craftsperson number and a year letter inside a shape. A fake stamp sits too deep, uses foil, or puts the letter in a shape that does not match the year.
Hardware and edge paint
Clasp and strap hardware on real bags has crisp engraving and a solid weight. Edges carry a thin, even layer of edge paint. Copies show soft engraving, light hardware and edge paint that runs onto the face of the leather.
Where copies appear
Constance and Evelyne copies show up in every price band. Treat a listing with a stock photo, a "receipt" image, or a story about a gift as unverified. Ask for photos of the strap anchor, the stamp, and the inside seam.
Legal position in the US
Trafficking in counterfeit goods is a federal crime under 18 U.S.C. § 2320. US Customs and Border Protection can seize a counterfeit bag at the border, including a single bag in a personal shipment. Hermès sells the Birkin and the Kelly in stores, not on its website.